Leg One: Complete!

Hello there from LIMA, everyone!

I have completed the first leg of my four-part journey home! Yesterday was a wonderful last day in Cusco. Laura, Brenna, and I did some MORE shopping (I know...as if such a thing could possibly be necessary!), and I got all of the final items I "needed," mostly gifts. I was very tempted to buy myself three particular items, namely a GORGEOUS yellow scarf that I saw in an artisan market, a new handbag, and a highly beaded hat (modeled below for your viewing pleasure!). Luckily (I think?), I resisted all said purchases and focused only on gifts.

 

After a brief dinner and internet break, Laura, Bren, and I reconvened in the plaza for a rather awesome noche. Every day, tourists walking through Cusco are greeted by a veritable chorus of women asking, "Masaje, senorita? Pedicure? Manicure? Waxing?" It had gotten to the point where it was just too difficult to keep saying no to treatments that would cost at least three times what these women were asking us to pay...so I convinced Laura and Brennan to say "yes." And so we found ourselves in a little massage room over top of one of the restaurants on Cusco's Plaza de Armas, preparing for a little beauty treatment. The whole experience was most enjoyable because the women who worked at the salon were super nice and funny, and though the three of us were separated by curtains, we decided not to pull them past our faces so that we could look at each other and chat and giggle throughout the whole experience. We emerged super pleased with our beauty bargain! After a sad goodbye with Brennan and the rest of the interns, whom we visited briefly at a bar off the plaza, Laura and I headed back to our apartamento for our final night as roommates!

Laura and I didn't have a teary goodbye, mainly because we know that we'll be seeing each other fairly soon when I go to the JMU Study Abroad fair in two months or so. It will definitely be weird, though, when I go to sleep the next few nights without hearing "Buenas noches, Sarita!" from my dear and lovely roommate! I'm glad to know that she and I will remain friends for mucho tiempo!

This morning, I woke up at the early hour of 5:30 AM and took a taxi to the airport, where I boarded my Peruvian Airlines plane to Peru with no fuss or frustration of any sort. I sat next to a handsome gent whom I briefly thought about attempting to seduce until I decided that sleep was more important. :-) Upon arrival in Lima, I took in a nice, gigantic breath of sea level air! I'm pretty sure that I could run two--maybe three--marathons right now with this new presence of oxygen. I'm also already feeling a pretty serious urge to bake something and watch it rise without any complications! What bliss!

Aware of the 15+ hours ahead of me in the Lima airport, I decided to investigate whether there might be a way for me to get myself onto an earlier flight somehow, and ultimately to manage an earlier arrival into Newark. This proved a rather complicated effort, and resulted in my being led to the Copa Airlines office, where I sat for a while while three intelligent airline representatives attempted to figure out whether my request might be possible. After much time spent in deliberation, they determined that it would be feasible for me to get on a flight leaving Lima at 1:58 PM (instead of my previously arranged 3:04 AM departure the following morning). Unfortunately, they waited until the end to tell me that this change would cost me a whopping $229. Luckily for me, I was able to whip out my Copa Airlines $300 voucher, earned after having been bumped on my way here, and they told me that I could use the voucher to pay for the change. I was pretty excited about all this, and I began to proceed with my bags down to the check-in to board my new flight. As I was walking toward the elevator, however, I Was stopped by one of the other Copa representatives, who told me that his colleague needed to speak to me again. I returned to the office, where she regretfully informed me that the flight had just sold its final seat. No more space for Sarah.

Since I hadn't exactly expected to have great success in my flight change attempts, I haven't been too super bummed by this news. I have come up with a number of lovely ways in which to occupy my time in Lima, which include responding to e-mails, blogging to all of you(!), looking up great recipes to try, reading, doing a bit of ProWorld work, and, once ProWorld intern Natalie arrives here for her layover, getting myself a nice little Peruvian massage with her using my remaining soles! Can't really complain about that!

Before commencing any of the above listed activities, though, I should mention that I went to an overpriced cafe called 4D and bought myself one of the best ice cream experiences of my life to date. I think it may actually have been a gelato experience, but whatever it was, it was BLISS. Worth visiting the Lima airport just to eat the gelato. I got myself a medium cup of the stuff, which allowed me to choose three flavors, so I had some sort of chocolate hazelnut awesomeness thing, some cookies and cream, and a reeeally delicious coconut. I am now quite satiated and quite pleased about it! It was my first truly high quality frozen dessert experience in Peru, and I shan't soon forget it!

I am now off to station myself at another cafe so that I don't become a mooch in any particular location. I don't know what exactly will be the future, if any, of this blog now that my Peru experience has come to its near end, but I have realized that I very much enjoy blogging for "sport," and I'm contemplating the start of some sort of themed blog relevant to food and love and quotes and music and all the things that I adore most. I shall do my best to deliver something of quality when the time comes for this blog to be born.

If you've been reading this chronicle from the very beginning, thank you so much for your continuous loyalty and prayers and encouragement and interest! I am so very blessed to have so many dear friends who care about me enough to read through my rambles and provide me with the support that has meant so much over the last few months!

What an experience it has been! And yes, Machu Picchu. It has been OH so nice to meet you. :-)

A Lovely Day of Staff Bonding

Greetings, Faithful Readers!

Today has been my second to last day of work, and while I've managed to get approximately nothing done, it has been a lovely Tuesday. Mila, the Peru Program Director for ProWorld, arranged for all of the Cusco staff to take a little jaunt to the Sacred Valley today to lunch and relax for a bit with the Urubamba ProWorld staff. This required us to pile into a bus for the 1.5 hour drive, which was both beautiful and entertaining (the latter the result of my teaching Lalo how to play "Hangman"!).

Being in Urubamba was a breath of fresh air, as it's a much smaller city than Cusco, and less polluted by vehicles puffing out black smoke. The ProWorld office there is the first ProWorld office that ever existed, and it's a pretty cool place. Very spacious and lots of places to sit outdoors.

I had thought that our lunch was to be something simple cooked in the office kitchen, but it turned out that we had reserved space at a rather swanky/touristy buffet called La Alhambra. We ate some darned good food, including some really yummy fava beans with a tomato and onion sauce and a banana cream pie that just beat all!

After lunch, we returned to the Urubamba office and enjoyed some nice conversation during which several staff members shared humorous stories from their summers. Eliza presented Laura and me with thank you gifts for our work this summer, and my gift was the BEAUTIFUL purple poncho that I've been watching now for weeks! I probably wouldn't have bought it for myself, so it was a super nice surprise, and I'm excited to wear it!

At night, Laura and I made an impressive effort to eat some pizza with Colleen and Max, and also attempted to make pisco sours for the four of us. This was rather harder to do than I expected, but I think I've gained some valuable experience now, and will be able to make them for my family using the pisco I'm transporting home in my bag. :-) The real obstacle will be making the drink without having Peruvian limes. I think that the US should consider cultivating these fine fruits on our home soil so that we don't have to fly on four airplanes to get to them! I would bring home some seeds and plant them myself, but I'm pretty sure that's grounds for them to arrest me, and I don't want to delay my trip to the Adirondacks!

It is now Wednesday, and I am finishing this blog during my last morning of work here in Peru! Tomorrow and Friday are feriados to celebrate Peru's independence, and I plan on frolicking in and around Cusco before I leave this fine country and return home! Tomorrow, Laura, Brennan, and I are off to Pisac for what will hopefully be our final day of shopping!

And since I've been slacking on pictures lately, here's a beautiful view of the mountains from Ollantaytambo...

 

Until very soon, amigos!

Una semana mas...

Hello there, Readers!

It seems like only yesterday that Maura and Gabi arrived in Peru, but they’re already back on US soil! Here's a picture of my cousin Maura with little Tomas, the son of Luz, one of our ProWorld staff colleagues...

 

In exactly one week, I will be in Lima, awaiting my 3 AM flight to Orlando, followed by a quick flight to Newark, a train to Philadelphia, and a ride home to dear NJ! The journey will be long, but full of joyful anticipation as I look forward to seeing my family and friends! Tonight, I’m feeling a little under the weather, which makes the thought of going home all the more appealing, but I still know that I will miss certain lovely qualities of Cusco that just can’t be found at home. The historic architecture from all the way back to the time of the Incans, the fresh produce markets in easy walking distance, the beautiful, Peruvian children so full of laughter despite living so simply, and the wonderful interns and colleagues I’ve come to know during my time here.

I’ve had a number of high points over the past week, and now, while I’m feeling sick, I think it might help to reflect on the positive by sharing it with all of you!

On Thursday night, Laura and I hosted a little dinner party for a few of our intern girlfriends—Meredith, Udani, Brennan, and Katie. Laura and I were pretty floored as to what we could make other than fajitas, but then we decided to investigate the possibility of a vegetable casserole. This turned out to be an excellent plan, even as we abided by my stipulations of no creamy sauces and minimal, if any, cheese! We found a recipe on a blog, and decided to give it a go. In a pie plate, we layered thinly sliced potatoes, baby spinach, garlic and sautéed red onion, zucchini, chicken (we decided to add a bit of protein), and tomato. We then sprinkled the mixture with salt and pepper, bread crumbs, a teensy bit of parmesan cheese, and a drizzle of olive oil. Not only was our final product beautiful, but it was also delicious! 40 minutes in the oven and we had created a masterpiece! The girls all enjoyed our concoction, and we had a fabulous time chatting and just enjoying each other’s delightfulness. I am truly blessed to have met these young women during my time in Cusco. While I had certainly hoped that I would meet some great students here in Peru, I had no idea that I’d meet ones that I’d want to stay in touch with after I left. They are such a positive, intelligent, well-rounded bunch.

Being around college students has also served to make me feel kind of old, and also to reflect on my own experience of being 19 and 20 and 21. I don’t exactly regret having been as much of a goody-goody as I was, but I do sometimes wish that I had allowed myself to have more experiences of the typical college student than I did. Really, though, I’m kind of an “old soul,” and drinking and late nights out never really held the appeal for me that they held for many of my peers. I sometimes wonder, though, if perhaps I missed out on something important. This sort of speculation has ultimately driven me to prayer. I pray that God will remind me that I’m not like everyone else, and that while it may be nice to be on the same “life development schedule” as most people my age, my timing is not as perfect as God’s. My idealistic side imagines being 25 and knowing exactly where I should be in my career, and being in love with some super study Mr. Awesome character, and knowing many more of the answers about my future; but I have been prompted to pray for God to remind me that my ideals aren’t necessarily His ideals, and that being 25, footloose, and still waiting to know His will isn’t exactly a bad thing! This is no easy task, praying for this sort of acceptance and patience, but I have hope that it will help me to live with a higher level of faith and gratitude.

Another word on prayer. I wrote an entry a while back about my efforts to be more consistent about praying, regardless of whether skies are gray or blue. I would just like to say that this remains super challenging! I continually find that it is during the times when I feel sick, or when I am lonely or sad or fearful, that I think to pray. And while those times of sickness and loneliness and sadness and fear are pretty craptastic, they may just be God’s way of reminding me that I need Him. It’s easy, when things are bad, to promise God that you’ll pray more regularly and be more consistent about your faith, but it’s so easy to indulge in self-righteousness and self-dependence when things get easy and happy again. I would be thankful for any of you readers who pray to encourage me and pray for me in this regard, that I might seek the Lord first in all situations. I will pray the same for all of you.

Yesterday (Friday, as I write this), Laura, Lalo, a professor on a site visit, 7 interns, and I went to the community Yunqanpi to build stoves. I was pretty super exhausted after having been up late with the girls the night before, but I fairly successfully gathered the energy to help supervise the stove-building process and speak with some of the families in the community. I also had the opportunity to actually get a little dirty building a stove with Caroline and Laura. We had a pretty fun time, and made a pretty beautiful stove. I also went to the house I’d visited the week before with a Cal Poly pair. In the house lived an elderly lady, her husband, their daughter and her husband, and their three granddaughters. I had spoken a bit with the granddaughters the week before, and promised to bring them an Andrew Whitman CD. When I arrived to deliver it, no one was home, but I left it in the door to their home, and I’m hopeful that they’ll become new fan club members!

Here are some of the Cal Poly students with the girls who wanted Andrew's CD.

 

After our project day was complete, I was super tired. Unfortunately, I knew that I wouldn’t be able to sleep for a while because of the busy night ahead. First, I rushed to the apartment and mixed the batter for a carrot cake to bring to Eliza’s house for dinner. After placing the cake in the oven, I contracted Laura to watch it like a hawk while I took a study abroad student, Meghan, to visit the Yanapanakusun Orphanage. Meghan is apparently a big fan of poetry and creative writing, and she’s going to lead a workshop for the girls at the orphanage to encourage them to express themselves in rhythmic poetry. I’m excited for her to share something that the girls have very probably not encountered before. After touring the orphanage quickly, I made a stop at the grocery store, hoping to find a nice container of ready-made, Betty Crocker icing for my carrot cake. Alas, no such thing was available in the Mega, so I had to buy a box of confectioner’s sugar, some butter, and a container of cream cheese to make the icing from scratch. Upon finally getting back to the apartment, I had an hour to shower and make myself presentable, as well as ice my carrot cake. My hopes for a nap were dwindling rapidly!

Laura and I made it out the door by 7:25 to be at Eliza’s for a 7:30 dinner gathering. She and Jenny had graciously invited us over to their apartment, and we eagerly accepted not only because they are awesome, but also because we knew we’d get to play with their puppies and sit by a warm fireplace! Jenny made the best arroz con pollo that I have yet had in Cusco, and Eliza also prepared a salad and some bruschetta. Dinner was delicious, and complemented by homemade pisco sours. I wish I had been present to watch the preparation process, but I’m just going to have to force Jenny to write everything down for me! My carrot cake proved tasty, though nothing like the carrot cake that I make at home. My mom’s carrot cake is the very best, but I had assumed that I would produce something reasonably similar using her recipe at 11,000 feet. Not exactly a replica, but definitely rich and decadent!
After hanging out at Eliza’s for a bit, Laura and I took a cab to the Plaza de Armas, where we had agreed to go out with the interns. I was only 50% excited about this plan, as I was tired, older than most of the goer-outers, and not excited about having to dance in public. It turned out, though, that the group had gathered at a more mellow, hookah-bar type establishment. I had my second pisco sour of the night (I know—whooooa baby), and actually really enjoyed being out with Meredith, Brennan, Udani, and Katie, as well as the rest of the group. Brooke, Marcelo, and Audrey came to the bar directly from their Machu Picchu trek, which made them the most impressive guests of the night, but I will award myself the next highest award for being past my late-night prime! Around 12:15, we all dispersed to head home, though the lovely ladies and I made a quick stop at a store by the plaza to buy some much-desired chocolate! By the time we had finished gallivanting and arrived back at our apartment, it was 1:15 in the morning!

Crazy Laura was expected to be on the project site again this morning, but I, thank God, was not, and enjoyed a lazy morning of sleeping in! When I finally woke, I ate a quick breakfast and then decided to go for my first run in Cusco! This ended up being quite exhausting, so I did an alternating series of three-minute runs and two-minute walks. At first, I felt pretty good, but by the end, it was hard to catch my breath. I would say that this is largely due to the altitude, but my lack of cardio exercise is very likely an added factor. Once back at the apartamento, I did some yoga and then some straightening of the house, and finally got a much-needed shower. My plan for the rest of the day was to stroll over to San Blas and do some shopping at their Saturday market, but this was around the time that I started feeling a tad under the weather. I decided to abandon my plan and instead take a snooze, which turned into a long nap. I am now back in my bed after a short trip to the grocery store to buy bread and ginger ale and saltines, just to be safe.
Another important reason that I am in my bed: I am frigid cold, and our gas-powered stove is very much out of gas! This is the first time that this has occurred since Laura and I moved in, and I have no idea what to do about refilling it. I’m also rightfully scared for my life after my last experience with gas-powered things at our prior Cusco apartment! I called the daughter of the man who rents out our apartment, and she pretty much said that we have to go and buy the gas and replace it. She apparently didn’t realize that she was talking to a household idiot, who doesn’t know the first thing about replacing a gas tank! Being in Peru has made me realize that there are some things that I really ought to learn to do—such as changing gas tanks, changing tires, breaking locks, and doing basic electrical wiring things. Paul Whitman, prepare to give me some lessons upon my arrival home!

Another highlight: I just finished watching a movie that I bought at El Molino called “Facing the Giants.” The movie isn’t exactly the best display of acting skills in the world, but the message is beautiful and I would highly recommend watching!

Finally, I had a really lovely conversation with my dear friend Meredith last night, during which she spent some time telling me about her freshman roommate at Notre Dame. This roommate, Annie, encouraged her friends to think, each night, of three things for which they were grateful that day. Having kept gratitude journals during a number of periods during my life, I immediately knew that this Annie character and I would be friends. Anyway, being reminded of these gratitude practices made me want to write down some things for which I am grateful myself…and here they are!
1. The friendships I’ve been able to forge with my roommate Laura, and also with the interns here in Peru, especially Brennan, Meredith, Katie, and Udani
2. The generosity of Eliza, and her commitment to doing good work in South and Central America
3. The strength that I have been given to walk and run and be active
4. The majesty of snow-capped mountains
5. The joy that always comes from beautiful music
6. Chocolate!
7. Warm slippers and a warm bed, especially in a cold place!
8. My Uncles Jim and Tom, who both kindly offered to help transport me to various places upon my arrival back in the USA
9. Great books
10. The comfort of the Psalms
11. The opportunity to be in Cusco for a while, and to realize how much service there remains to be done and how much love needs to be spread both not only in this country, but in this continent, and in the world! Mother Teresa said, “Find your Calcutta,” and I’m excited to find mine!

I am also so very grateful for you, Readers, who remind me of the love that I have waiting for me when I arrive home! God is good.

Hasta pronto!

A Few Highlights

Greetings, Readers, and Happy Tuesday!

I am still in the office and ready to go home, so this will be short, but here are a few highlights of the past few days...

1. Maura and Gabi arrived safely in Cusco, and though I haven't seen a ton of them, I've enjoyed their presence here and there. On their first day in Cusco, I took them for a little city tour, which included stops at several artisan markets and all of the main plazas. Gabi has a pretty interesting appetite, which is composed almost entirely of white foods--potatoes, rice, chicken, cheese, and bread, to be specific. Luckily for her, Peru is full of all of those things, so she'll be able to eat without much of a problem! I made the girls an information sheet with instructions on how to get to some interesting places in and around Cusco. Yesterday, they managed to get themselves all the way to and from Ollantaytambo via a colectivo, which I found quite impressive. After they got back, they joined Laura, Colleen, and me on a trip to El Molino, where we all bought some DVDs. It's been kind of an unexpectedly rainy day today, so I am going to watch one tonight, though I'm not yet sure which.

2. On our walk from Molino to the combi stop, Laura spotted a bootlegged copy of the last Harry Potter movie! She, Colleen, and I were super excited about this find (which cost us 2 soles), but made an immediate pact (in the middle of the sidewalk where we happened to be standing) that we wouldn't watch the movie if it was a) or horrible quality and/or b) not in English. We arrived home, did a test drive, and were suuuper excited to find that our requirements were met! I was not looking forward to spending the equivalent of 36 soles on a movie ticket, and now I don't have to! Wooot!

3. Tomorrow, Maura and Gabi are headed to Machu Picchu, and I have a rather busy day of meetings and things before a delicious dinner with Cal Poly at Pachapapa Restaurant. I enjoyed my last meal there so much that I have decided to order almost exactly the same thing, except that I've changed my dessert from fruit salad to ice cream. Last time, the ice cream looked super delish.

4. I introduced Laura to sporcle.com today, which pretty much made her life complete. :-) Once she had properly figured out the site and how the games work, we spent a brief period of time having timed sporcle competitions, which was a bundle of fun. Sporcle provides just the short respite from work that makes the day that much better! For those of you who are unfamiliar with the site, I highly recommend a look-see.

5. Yesterday morning, I went to Centro Yanapanakusun, an orphanage for girls in Cusco. I visited with Brennan, a current intern there, who kindly gave me a tour of the facility, introduced me to the director, and gave me a taste of what she's been doing there each morning. I knew the place would be interesting, but I didn't expect to love it. It is AWESOME! The girls I met were so sweet and selfless, and so eager to learn! I spent much of the day with a dear 14-year-old named Sucy, and she and I practiced doing math problems in English (an ingenious idea of Brennan--why not integrate math problems with language learning?!). I didn't want to leave when 1 PM came around, and I wish that I could be a regular volunteer there. Such sweet girls. I am sending them a copy of Andrew's CD because they were super excited to hear that my brother is a cantante and that he can tocar la guitarra! I think they'll be super excited to receive it from Brennan tomorrow.

Here's a picture of Brennan, me, and sweet Sucy, one of the girls at the orphanage.

 

That's about all I've got for now, folks! I could say more, but I'm pretty hungry and pretty ready to head home and make some popcorn!

My time in Cusco is quickly winding to a close, and I am excited to see some of your faces in the very near future!

Hasta luego!

Things To Think About...

Dear Friends,

It’s Saturday night, and though I’ll probably ending up posting this on Sunday or Monday, I wanted to get my thoughts down on paper while they’re still fresh. I’ve had much to do, and much to think about, today.

This morning, Laura and I again headed to the ProWorld office at 8:00 AM. Laura went with the current interns to Occoruro to paint the inside of the community center, and I went with the Cal Poly students to the community we had visited yesterday, to continue building stoves. Today felt much more productive than yesterday because we got an earlier start and we didn’t need to have an orientation since we’d had one yesterday. When we arrived, there were several community members waiting for us, so we quickly divided and dispersed the students to various households. While they began to build, Eliza and I went to some of the other homes in the community to find out which of the other families were adequately prepared for their stoves to be built. Each community member is expected to have prepared barro (thick mud made with dirt, water, and hair from humans, cows, pigs, and cuy), gathered the required bricks and ceramic pieces, and built a foundation upon which their stove will be constructed. At one of the houses I visited, there were about four vicious and territorial dogs, one of which tried to take a bite out of my leg. Although there are tons of stray dogs in Cusco and the outlying communities, I hadn’t considered them a threat until today. Apparently, it’s not uncommon for dogs in the rural villages to be more defensive of their turf—a good thing to know! Luckily, the dog bite wasn’t nearly as painful as the bump on my head from the day before!

At one of the houses that I visited, there was a man who was nonverbal and appeared to have Down’s syndrome. I had a brief conversation with his mother, who introduced him and informed me that he was one of her five children, and that he had “had an accident” and “fallen on his head.” In Peru, it’s unfortunately common for people to believe that certain disabilities require excuses and apologies. In fact, I recently learned that there are places in Peru in which families take the lives of newborn children who are born with disabilities because they see it as the most logical course of action. As I listened to this woman explain her son’s condition, I was saddened to realize that she had no information to inform her about what Down’s syndrome is, and how to best interact with a child who has it. I was simultaneously comforted to think about the presence of schools like Manos Unidas. Though Manos Unidas and places like it are not exactly commonplace quite yet, I hold onto the hope that they represent a movement among Peruvians toward greater understanding and acceptance of people with disabilities.

After investigating houses with Eliza, I joined Francesca and Cody as they followed a twelve-year-old girl, Diana, to the house of her grandmother. Diana led us across a field, over a brook, and along a path to her grandmother’s house, where her family excitedly awaited a new stove for their kitchen area. Diana has two younger sisters, Leticia and Silvana, and the three girls are so very dear. I enjoyed chatting with them, and learning that they have aspirations of becoming a police officer, a professor, and a doctor, respectively. I also met their mother, who told me that she is currently going to school in Cusco to become a pharmacist. She asked for my e-mail, which I gave her, and I hope that she and I can stay in touch.

As Cody, Francesca, and I worked on the stove, the two men of the house (grandpa and dad, I assume) took on the rather difficult task of cutting a hole in their roof for the new chimney. I was impressed not only by their manpower, but also by the fact that they trusted enough in our not-yet-built stove to cut a hole in their roof! It is incredible to see how resourceful and strong these people can be. Equally incredible is their hospitality. Most families in the campo live on about 100 soles, or 33 dollars, per month. It’s worth thinking about—living on a little over a dollar each day. And yet, as we worked, Diana’s mother left the house briefly and returned with a bottle of Coca-Cola and a bag of fresh fruit—for us. As I drank my mug of Coca Cola, my mind wandered a few years back to my time in Albania. When my friend Jayme and I visited the Roma (gypsy) community near the capital city of Tirana, we visited “houses” made of thin metal and cardboard, and spoke to young, single mothers with five and six children. When we came into their homes, they, too, would send their children off to buy us Fanta or Coca Cola or some other luxury that was clearly not an everyday expense. What a humbling and heartwarming experience to be given so much from people who have so little. We have much to learn from the way these people live—from their resourcefulness, from their simplicity, and certainly from their generosity.

After helping Francesca and Cody for a while, I headed back to our group meeting point. As I walked across a little log bridge over a creek, I stopped and took a moment to absorb my surroundings. As I took in the majesty of the mountains and the blueness of the sky, I felt called to thank God for the beauty of this country and the people I had met in the community today. It is so easy to become oblivious to the glory that has surrounded me for the last two and a half months. So many people talk of feeling small beside the ocean, but there’s something equally powerful about standing among mountains. In those moments of clarity, I thank God that I am here and that I have been blessed with the opportunity to meet my brothers and sisters in Peru. Being in the center of the mountains also reminds me of one of my favorite sayings: “Stop telling your God how big your mountain is, and start telling your mountain how big your God is.” Pretty cool, eh?

At lunchtime, I witnessed another great bit of generosity. As the Cal Poly students and I sat in a field with our sandwiches and water bottles, we were joined by a large group of community members, who arrived carrying a pile of glass plates and a large tub covered with a cloth. Inside the tub were about 40 oven-roasted cuys, prepared especially for us. Cuy is a source of income for these community members, and the preparation of such a prized and expensive dish for a group of 30-some volunteers was remarkably generous. I can’t say that it was the most delicious thing I’ve ever eaten, but I did my best with the serving of cuy that I received, and was actually rather impressed with how flavorful the meat was. As we ate, I also spent some time playing with one of the most precious babies I have ever seen. The sweetheart, whose name I can’t remember, had a very full head of hair for a ten-month-old, and was such a giggler! His mom and I chatted, and then she let me play with him for a while, and I pretty much fell in love. Each time that I lifted him above my head, he would giggle and the most beautiful smile would appear on his chubby face. So much joy.

After lunch, I joined team “Chad and Brad” on a stove-building venture for a family living down the road a ways from our starting point. The boys were fun to work with, and were clearly very talented mud throwers. They had turned the slapping of barro into something of an art, and though I wouldn’t say their stoves are always the prettiest, I have no doubt that they are durable! Working with the two of them made the afternoon fly by, and soon it was time to return to Cusco.

On the bus back to the ProWorld office, I read some more of The Life You Can Save. Truly, the more I read of this book, the more I realize just how much more I can, and ought, to do for people in need all over the world. I have so much to say about this book that I am going to reserve my thoughts for a future blog entry!
When I got back to the office, I logged onto my computer to check my e-mail. As per usual, my inbox was filled with a few personal e-mails and lots of advertisements from shopping websites. A while ago, I signed up for several websites that send along “daily deals” and “final clearance markdowns” and the like. I subscribed to them innocently enough, and haven’t bought very many things since having signed up, but here in Peru, I feel so guilty when I look at things like leather bags marked down from $350 to $90, and dresses “on sale” for $400. When I think of the difference that even fifty dollars would make in the life of a family in Occoruro or Pinancay, I can’t even consider buying that bag. (And, being a Whitman, I wouldn’t consider the $400 dress under any circumstances unless it were my wedding gown!). I hope to bring this “need vs. want” perspective home to the United States with me, and to consider the often superfluous items on which I spend my money. More on this when I tell y’all about The Life You Can Save.

Since returning to Cusco, I’ve prepared and eaten dinner, gone to the grocery store (which I was too tired to do yesterday), watched a movie, and written this blog! It’s just about sleepytime! My final comments:

1.My cousin Maura and her friend Gabrielle arrive in Cusco tomorrow! Good times ahead!

2.I have realized the food item that I will miss upon leaving Cusco, and it is, unsurprisingly, a cookie. I think that part of my love for this particular cookie is its dense, crumbly texture, which may not appeal to some. But I find it delicious, and I’m pretty sure that it will be hard to recreate such a cookie in the US. It’s called a “condesa,” and I recommend that anyone who travels to Peru find one and eat it and experience its crazy yumminess!

3.Tomorrow (which, by the time I post this, is probably “today”) is the 25th birthday of my dear, dear amiga, Jayme Ewanichak! For those of you know Jayme, you know that it’s worth celebrating that a person as awesome as herself has been here on the earth for 25 years! And for those of you who don’t know Jayme, you should meet her. I will make it happen for those who request an introduction! 

4.The final film installment of the Harry Potter series was released yesterday. Laura, Nicole, and I are all pretty super disappointed to have missed this premiere, and the three of us are all planning on seeing the movie promptly upon return to the US. As we discussed our shared excitement, Laura brought up the fact that movie tickets in the US cost a whopping 12 dollars these days, which amounts to 36 soles, or about four three-course dinners in Cusco. I am already having some serious anxiety about letting US dollars back into my life. Is Harry Potter worth it? Or should I wait for the video? The inner dilemma has begun…

For those of you who made it through this rather uber-long post, congratulations, and thanks for loving me enough to keep reading! In just over two weeks, I will be back in the United States! “Be it ever so humble, there’s no place like home!”

Cocinas Mejoradas with Cal Poly

Happy Friday, Readers!

It's been a tiring day, and Laura and I are both ready for long naps that might just turn into bedtime! Last night, we hosted a little dinner shindig with some of the wonderful interns who are currently here in Cusco. Colleen and Nicole are two University of Iowa students who extended their trip for a few extra weeks after their classmates left. Colleen stayed with us at our apartment until this morning (when her boyfriend arrived), and Nicole is with us for a week while interning at a local health clinic. In addition to the four of us, we invited Udani, Katie, Meredith, and Brennan, a delightful bunch of ladies who came over with vino and big appetites, which we satisfied by way of some seriously yummy fajitas. Followed by chocolate cake, obviously. :-)

I would also like to announce that I have officially become awesome at making rice in Peru. And by that, I mean that the rice I made last night was a SERIOUS improvement over the attempt I recounted a few blog entries ago. We ended up with quite a bit of leftover rice and black beans at the end of the night, which we promptly mixed, and will now be eating for the next several days.

This morning, I woke up early, along with Laura, to meet the students of Cal Poly and some of the interns for a day of work. Laura accompanied the interns to Occoruro, where they finished a lot of the painting that Cal Poly had begun the week before. I went with Cal Poly to another community, called Yupaquay (I think), where we began building stoves. We got a bit of a late start to our day, so we didn't end up constructing as many stoves as we had hoped, but we will return tomorrow to continue the good work. I spent much of the afternoon with two students, Rachel and Aubrey, who realized after almost completing their cocina that they had forgot to place the three metal reinforcements underneath the top part of the stove. As a result, we had to do a bit of deconstruction and reconstruction. Though the girls were slightly frustrated, they remained optimistic and put in the extra time to build a stunning stove. The home where we worked was inhabited by an adorably sweet older man, his daughter, his son-in-law, and his granddaughter. It was really nice to work with the family, and "Grandpa" was both sweet AND quite the perfectionist! He kept looking critically at the stove and then suggesting that we add a teensy bit of mud to the top left corner, or shift the chimney piece a slight bit to the right. His advice was well-given, though, and the final work was quite an accomplishment.

The only unfortunate part of the day came when I bumped my head pretty seriously on the doorway of the house where we were working. (Just goes to show that Peruvians really are pretty short if someone of my stature can't make it through the doorway!). It was rather a painful experience, and I'm pretty sure I've developed quite the attractive bump, but my memory seems to remain intact, so I think that all is well!

On the way back to Cusco, I read some of Peter Singer's The Life You Can Save, a book that has become more interesting to me with each chapter. For any of you who are interested in world poverty and global wealth and how we can improve the lives of our fellow human beings all over the world, I would highly recommend reading Singer's book. It's both well-written and inspiring.

This Sunday, my cousin Maura and her friend Gabi will be arriving here in Cusco for a brief visit of about six days. I'm very excited to show them my city, which I've come to realize that I will miss when I leave. It hit me a few days ago as I walked to the market with Laura...Cusco is pretty darned awesome. I'm still super excited to get home and be at beautiful Friends Lake with beautiful family and friends, but I think maybe a little bit of my heart will stay here. (Luckily, Laura plans on moving here permanently in the not-too-distant future, so I'll be able to come back and visit with good reason!)

And now, dear friends, I am off to buy some tortillas and some water, fix myself some dinner, and then cover myself in blankets for a good night's sleep before another workday.

Hope that all of you have a most delightful weekend!

The Adventueres of "Maizito"...

Happy Monday, Dear Readers!

It has been an eventful weekend! It's only Monday, and I'm already tired, but content. Yesterday, I slept in a bit and then attended my normal mass at La Compania at 11:30. The Gospel reading recounted the parable of the sower and his seeds. The priest reminded us that we represent the soil in Jesus' parable, and that we are the ones who determine whether we will be the sort of soil that bears fruit or the sort that dries out or has shallow roots. I think the analogy of soil is a really clever one because soil can be cultivated, and so can human beings. Pretty neat that God has put our spiritual nourishment under our control. When we actively seek God's grace to replenish our dry soil, we give new meaning to "Miracle-Gro"!

After church, I decided, on a whim, to go to the town of Ollantaytambo, in the Sacred Valley. I had been there only for a very short time in the early morning (while waiting for the train to Machu Picchu), and I wanted to spend some time traipsing through the place. With my destination chosen, I headed to Cusco's Paradero Pavitos, where it's possible to take a colectivo (a group taxi) to various destinations a bit further from the city. I joined a pair of Spanish lovers and a random guy in a taxi, and made some serious progress in my reading of The Girl With the Dragon Tattoo while we drove into the Sacred Valley. The day was beautiful, and as we got close to our destination, I stopped reading and enjoyed the incredible view of the mountains and the bluest of blue skies. The colectivo dropped us off in the Plaza de Armas of Ollantaytambo. My first stop was Hearts Cafe, a British-run cafe that donates a significant portion of its proceeds to humanitarian work in Peru. While I wish I could say that their social awareness was my motivation for visiting, it was actually the fact that I had read about their scones. For those of you who are unaware, I am a scone monster. Scones = joy. Unfortunately, I have to say that I was underwhelmed by the quality of the scones at Hearts Cafe. Feels sort of blasphemous since the place is British-run, but I think I will place the blame on the altitude and the "butter" used in Peru.

After my lunch, I wandered around the city a bit, enjoying the old, stone streets and the awesome system of waterways that runs through the city. The Incans are geniuses. Seriously. I don't really know why the waterways are important, but I have no doubt that there was some genius behind their construction, and they now serve as a beautiful sight in the city, if nothing else. Another highlight of my walk through the city was the view of the mountains and the ruins. People who buy a boleto turistico can actually hike up to the ruins, but I didn't have the time (or the boleto), so I just viewed from below. There were also some interesting views of Incan agricultural terraces as well. Pretty super cool.

Finally, I spent some time in the artisan market, where I bought a gift for one of my friends and a gift for myself. :-) I have been looking for some time for a silver pendant with a painted hummingbird on it. While that may sound like a ridiculously specific request, silver painted hummingbirds are actually quite easy to find in and around Cusco, as hummingbirds have significance to the Incans. The term they use for it is the "colibri," and I've been keeping my eyes out for one that is painted with particular care. Yesterday, I found it, and I'm excited to have a bit of Peru to wear with me when I'm back at home!

By the time I'd finished walking through the market, it was time to head back to Cusco to meet roommate Laura for our date to the Russian ballet! I walked to the Ollantaytambo train station, where it's possible to find colectivos headed to Cusco. As I walked into the parking lot where the cars wait, a minivan was on its way out. There were two young Peruvian guys in the front, and the driver looked at me and said, "Cusco?" I nodded, and did what any normal traveler :-) would do--I hopped on into their car. When I got inside, the van erupted in laughter and cheers. In addition to the two Peruvians I had seen from the front window of the van, there were five more in the backseat. They were all tour guides returning from having led treks over the Inca Trail. As soon as I was seated, I began to wonder if my instincts had failed me, but the officer manning the gate to the parking lot didn't seem worried, so I stayed put.

Some "highlights" of my drive with the boys:
-the attempts to get me to drink the super strong mix of pisco and Sprite that the boys were passing around in the backseat (the driver wasn't drinking or I would have jumped ship immediately).
-the bestowing of my new nickname, "Maizito," which means "little corn," and refers to the fact that "Sarah" means "corn" in Qechua
-Daniel, definitely the class clown and the class drunk, asking me out on a date. No thank you.
-the pee break that all of the passengers took about midway through our drive. They pulled the van over and then stood in a line and peed over the side of a cliff. Oh so classy.
-the chanting of "pisco, pisco, pisco" to the rhythm of pretty much any song that played on the CD player
-my lesson on what to say to perverted men who whistle at me on the streets of Cusco (I looked up the guys' recommended response today on Urban Dictionary, and I will not be using it because it is quite inappropriate)
-The discovery that the tour guide sitting next to me just finished the Inca Trail with a group of students who just happened to be........the Iowa State group here with ProWorld! Crazy coincidence!

Needless to say, I was delighted upon our arrival in Cusco, and amused by my experience of what the guys referred to as "Peru profundo."

By the time we got back, it didn't make sense to go home and then turn right around to go to the ballet. I ended up shopping at a bunch of artisan stalls set up in the Plaza San Francisco, where I bought a very soft and warm scarf (mostly because it was a case of immediate need, but it happens to be quite pretty!). I met up with Laura a little before 7:30, and we took our seats in the theatre where the ballet was to take place. We were immediately impressed by the incredible strength and beauty of the dancers, but also somewhat confused by the program. We were expecting "Swan Lake" and a few extra little pieces, but it turns out that "Swan Lake" was somewhat misleadingly advertised, and we only got to see one dance from "Swan Lake" and a variety of other dances. Laura and I were both rather disappointed, as "Swan Lake" had been our number one motivation for attending the performance in the first place, but we did enjoy the evening anyway. We were going to go out with Eliza and Jenny and Kate (the Urubamba site director) after the show, but Kate ended up having to go back to Urubamba to take care of an issue on-site, so we ended up heading home and going to bed. Not a bad thing, as we had both had fairly exhausting days!

This morning, I had the lovely job of bringing one of our interns, Michelle, to the Santa Teresa de Calcuta orphanage, where she'll be spending her mornings for the next few weeks. It was nice to see the sisters again, as well as the sweet patients who live there. On my way out, I stopped to say hello to some of the women who were sitting outside in their wheelchairs, soaking in the sun. I was particularly taken with one woman, who, upon taking hold of my hands, wouldn't stop kissing them. Unfortunately, her speech was very garbled, so we couldn't really converse. Even so, it was humbling to see the joy that she took simply from holding my hands in hers. I returned to the center in the afternoon to introduce two additional interns to the Santa Teresa sisters, and one of the interns commented on how peaceful the place seemed in spite of the many patients with disabilities. It was an interesting and accurate observation, and I think that the sense of peace comes in large part from the prayerful, patient nature of the sisters, all of whom have such love for the patients under their care. It is always a learning experience to be at the Santa Teresa center, even if only for a brief while. I am pleased that we have been able to help them by sending more volunteers.

And that, dear friends, concludes my adventures up to the present. This evening, I am going out to dinner with the Iowa girls for their farewell meal. While I'm sad to have to say goodbye to them, I'm excited for a fun night of delicious food and lots of laughter!

Hasta pronto!

An Entry Oft Interrupted

Hello, Dear Readers!

I am writing to you from my bed, where I am becoming so cozy that I may fall asleep quite soon, even though it’s only 8:51 PM. Although Cusco in winter is much warmer than New Jersey in winter, it still gets dark very early at this time of year, so I tend to feel tired much earlier. It’s going to be nice to enjoy the last days of summer at home, eating late dinners outside while it’s still warm and somewhat light out. The last few days have been occupied with various administrative activities on my part. Now that all of the July interns and volunteers are here, Eliza, Laura, and I have been spending time checking in on how everyone is doing and making sure that internships and volunteer placements are going as planned. Tomorrow, we’ll all be traveling to the community of Occoruro to work on various development projects. I think it’ll be a nice change of pace. A few updates, highlights, and thoughts since my last blog…

One of my recent tasks has been to create a document listing all of the possible activities that are available within a day’s travel from Cusco. In compiling this list, I have begun to realize just how much of Peru I still haven’t seen! The northern part of the country has just been too far a journey, and the south is accessible, but I still haven’t gotten there. And even in proximity to Cusco, there are tons of things that I have yet to do! I learned, for example, about a town called Oropesa, which, despite its small size, has been called “the bread capital of Cusco.” The town even hosts an annual two-day bread festival every October! A mere 30 minutes from Cusco and I had no idea! Then there’s this activity called “via ferrata,” in which you scale a super steep mountain face using a system of connected steel ladders and bridges (while attached to a cable that prevents falling to your death). And paragliding. And even simply exploring more of the Sacred Valley! I’ve realized that I have much to do! I think that by actively seeking to see more of the country in my last several weeks, I will become more appreciative of Peru. I think such adventures will also make my date of return to home (sweet home) arrive that much faster.

This evening, I finally got to visit dear Agripina, the homestay mom who hosted weeknight dinners for the St. Scholastica students and me. When I had first met her, she had told me about how much she wanted a new Vera Bradley bag like the one that one of her prior volunteers had given her. I was so excited to give her the bag that I had ordered and asked Andrew and Brian to bring along with them when they came to Peru! It was worth every penny to see her excitement and that of her daughter-in-law, Pilar, both of whom just love Vera! Agripina insisted that I join her, her grandson Giordano, and her two current homestay students (Sarah and Nicki, of the U of Iowa) for dinner. She made some very delicious elbow macaroni with pieces of meat and vegetables and potatoes, and as we ate, we had some nice Spanish conversation. It having been six years since my own study abroad semester in Spain, I had forgotten how much Spanish practice can take place in a homestay. It was a delightful challenge to converse over dinner in Spanish. It was a reminder of how much I still have to learn, but also a great opportunity to practice! Agripina and I made tentative plans to go to Pisac together for the Fiesta of the Virgen del Carmen, which takes place on July 16th. I don’t know if we’ll really end up going, but I think we’d have a ball, so I’m hopeful!

Last night, I had an interesting domestic adventure. I attempted to cook arroz con verduras, which translates to “rice and vegetables” and ought to be the simplest thing in the world to make. And it probably is, for a Peruvian. But for those of us who tend to consume most meals rice-free, the process of rice making can be a bit of an ordeal. Determined to

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Ok, everyone, take a deep breath and imagine that about 21 hours have passed. Because that’s how long it’s actually been since I began this blog entry. It is now Friday, a little after 6 PM, and last night as I typed in my cozy pajama pants, Laura came into my room and convinced me to go out to the Plaza de Armas for the centennial celebration of Machu Picchu. We ended up having quite a delightful time. We met up with Eliza and her roommate, Jenny, and the four of us hung out in the plaza, where there was a band performing live and lots of people and stalls selling beer. I was pretty super excited to have some Quara, which is this fruity beer that tastes like lots of fruit (and not much beer), but by the time we got there, they only had Cusquena, so I shared with Eliza. (This was actually sort of a good thing because I had already eaten more than my fair share of calories in the form of Twizzlers that Paul and Eileen had left behind for me…)

Anyway, I’m back. Let me continue from where I left off. Rice cooking. The act is much more difficult than it seems! Because of the altitude, water boils very quickly here, so I probably should have used a higher ratio of water to rice, but I did not, so when the water had boiled off, the rice still wasn’t fully cooked. So I threw in some more water and some vegetable bouillon and waited for that liquid to evaporate. Which it did, resulted in a very mushy rendition of arroz con verduras. By the time all this had taken place, I was quite hungry, and was therefore quite able to enjoy the mushy mess I had created. However, I am actively seeking a Peruvian who will teach me how to make rice properly. I shall report back upon my success!

Also, I bought my plane ticket to Oaxaca, Mexico this week! Oaxaca is not only a ProWorld site, but also the culinary capital of Mexico, which means I am going to eat lots of delicious things (all of which will, obviously, be sin queso and sin crema)! I’ll be there for five days, along with the rest of the ProWorld marketing team, to discuss strategies for the upcoming year and also to help train the soon-to-be-hired new University Relations Advisors! I’m excited to have some new colleagues with the same role as me, and am also quite keen on giving a few of my (maaany) states to a fellow rep. There are a LOT of colleges on the east coast, and now we can give them all more attention.

Laura and I were walking along one of the main streets in Cusco a few days ago, and we saw a banner advertising the Russian ballet. We discussed our feelings about the ballet, and I said to Laura, “I’m not particularly into the whole ballet thing, although if they were doing ‘Swan Lake,’ I’d probably go to that after having watched ‘The Black Swan.’” Seconds later, we looked up at the smaller print on the sign to see what was to be performed in Cusco, and we read “El Lago de los Cisnes”! It was a sign! So we decided that we’re going on a roommate date to the ballet! Last night, we found out that Eliza is also planning on attending. Hopefully, the dancers will enthrall us!

Today, I went with Eliza, Lalo, and the 33 students from Cal Poly to the community of Occoruro to work on two projects. We divided into two groups; my group, led by myself and Jnan, a Cal Poly professor, was assigned the task of sanding and priming the community’s meeting room in preparation for painting it. Along with a lovely Cal Poly student named Grace, I became one of the chief sanders, which ultimately resulted in my entire face turning green from the dusty paint chips that came off of the wall as we sanded. The best description of our skin color would be to compare it to the color of a McDonald’s Shamrock Shake. Kind of gross…kind of awesome.

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And another deep breath if you will. It is now Saturday, and again last night, I again interrupted my blogging for social purposes. I am such a party animal!  Laura and I were invited to dinner at Eliza and Jenny’s house last night, and we were very excited both to hang out with them and to see the adorable puppies recently had by Jenny’s dog, Chaska. On our way to their apartment (which is adorable, I might add—complete with real fireplace!), we bought some vino and then decided to buy a chocolate cake. I wasn’t expecting anything amazing regarding the cake, but it turned out to be fabulously rich, and—dare I use my least favorite word—moist?! Jenny made us an amazing dinner called pequay (I know I spelled that wrong), basically a meat, potato, and vegetable mixture that was really well seasoned. I told her that she has to teach me to make it before I leave this country. I will then make it for you fine readers in the US of A! As we ate, we watched the soccer game between Peru and Mexico, which turned out to be pretty super exciting. Peru won by one awesome goal, and we—both the ladies and the puppies—were quite beside ourselves. (To be entirely honest, I wasn’t “beside myself.” I don’t really follow such things, but I will say that it was a pretty awesome moment when the goal was scored!).

Today, I accompanied three interns to a community close to the town of Izcuchaca, where we were to build stoves for two households. We were joined by a professor, Dr. Silva, from Georgia, and also his daughter Briana. Dr. Silva is interested in bringing students from his university to Peru, and wanted to experience one of our projects. It turns out that my team of stove-builders was also a team of perfectionists, so we didn’t finish a great number of stoves, but the ones that they did complete were top notch! It was fun helping to supervise them and watching them meet the community for the first time!

And now, friends, I must be off. A ProWorld student is sick, and I have offered to accompany her to the clinic. I am excited to see many of you in a few short weeks, and expect to write again very soon!

Happy Tuesday, Dear Readers!

I am feeling quite hopeful that I've made it through the worst of my illness and am on the road to feeling casi normal! I'm currently enjoying the presence of some lovely ladies from the state of Iowa, all of whom are presently being studious in my office. In a few hours, they're going to come over to my apartment, where Laura and I will be rewarding their hard work with some warm brownies. (We're so nice! :-))

The office has been a-bustling lately with new interns, and it's kind of neat to have so much activity in the name of sustainable volunteerism! That said, the internet is rather slow due to the quantity of people online in the office at any one time, and Laura and Eliza and I have lots to do! Today, I got the lovely job of escorting Miss Meredith to Manos Unidas, where she'll be interning for the next month. It was great to see Claire and Mercedes and the students again, and I sort of wish I could go and intern too! Meredith will be working in the adult life skills class, helping kids with everything from handwriting to dancing to cooking. I think she's going to enjoy her experience very much.

Yesterday, in honor of Independence Day, I did the most American thing I could do in Cusco, which was...drumroll please!...to watch the movie "The American." I would like to say that it was not only dismally un-American, but also a pretty bad movie! I had high hopes for George Clooney, and he let me down. Poo.

I also had the lovely joy of getting to chat with my sister Julie today! She just got back from a weekend at the beach, and I know that I'm homesick because even the beach sounds appealing right now! Normally, I am not a fan of such overtly sunny climes due to concerns regarding sunburn and heat exhaustion (we pale people have to be careful!), but the idea of being in Ocean City with my family is appealing at present. (Not as appealing as Friends Lake, but appealing nonetheless!)

I posted some photos of my parents' trip to Peru on facebook today, but for those of you who don't have fb, below is a link to the Google album. Enjoy!

https://picasaweb.google.com/whitmanse/PaulAndEileenInPeru?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCMGBr4yP7dKYywE&feat=directlink

And now, I am off to relax before the craziness of the Iowa ladies enters the house!

Later, friends!

Homesickness, A Thankful Heart, and Being A House

That is probably my most ridiculous blog entry title to date, but I thought that by referencing the three things I wanted to mention, I might actually manage to stay more on task than usual. Obviously, staying on task isn't exactly one of my personal talents, but I only have half an hour before I have to go and complete a bit of ProWorld business, so I am forced to avoid my normal tendency toward digression. :-) With that in mind, I offer what I hope will be a succinct and informative bit of blogness.

Homesickness. I feel it. Cusco has gone a little cuckoo these last few days, and the city has been rainy and muddy and gloomy. I am normally not one to judge rain too harshly. On the contrary, I like to embrace it, with a book and a cup of tea, from some cozy nook inside of my house. Ideally near a fireplace. Sadly, in Cusco, my apartment is not only devoid of "cozy nooks," but also FRIGID and the rain seems to make it more so. And there is no fireplace in sight. And when the weather isn't exactly beautiful, it's much easier to fall into a bout of homesickness, and to long for beautiful Friends Lake, and Scrabble games, and music around a campfire, and the ones I love most. So, while I like to always put on a happy face, I would like to announce that I am homesick. Still maintaining my inner joy, but definitely homesick. New Jersey is going to get a lot of love from me upon my return!

"A thankful heart is a happy heart." Not only does this come straight from the title of a "Veggie Tales" video, but also straight from the B-I-B-L-E. And it's oh so true. This morning, I was thinking about my college days (long, long ago) and the gratitude journal that I liked to keep during that time. Each night, I would spend a few minutes writing down the people and things for which I was particularly grateful that day. It's an exercise that I think I'd like to begin again, and to start it off, here are some of the gifts for which I am especially thankful today... for my roommate, Laura; for safe water to drink; for good bread; for a bed to sleep in; for Meredith, one of the interns here who always makes me smile; for my friend Matt Taylor; for the church I have found here in Cusco; for hot tea; for my body's strength and flexibility; for my friend Jayme; for the opportunity for my parents to relax at the lake; for a home wonderful enough to make me as homesick as I am; for the promise of sunshine; for the power of prayer; for happiness-producing e-mails; for chubby babies; for difficult times that cause important personal growth.

That's just a start, but I'm already excited at the prospect of reading over this list and being reminded of the many blessings God has given me. Are any of you readers feeling discouraged or lonely? I encourage you to make your own list! And if you want to share it with me, I'd love to read it!

Finally, being a house. At church this morning, we read about living lives that are not carnal, but spiritual. It's kind of neat to think that not only has God prepared a place for us in heaven, but also that we are meant to prepare our bodies as a house for Him during our lives here on earth. I know we've all heard the saying, "Your body is a temple," but if it's really true, do we really treat our bodies that way? I mean, if we really view our bodies as houses for GOD, the One who made us and gave us eternal life, then we probably all need to make some changes! These changes can be as superficial as the things we eat and the things we wear, and as profound as the way we speak to others, or the time we take to think before acting out of anger or pride. I know that there are times when I eat gluttonously, and times when I pull the steering wheel out of God's hands and try to set the course for my life, but I think that it might help in the future to remind myself that my body really and truly is a temple. And not just any temple, but a temple for God. Pretty awesome!

Well, folks, I hope I haven't digressed too much. I'm thinking that perhaps I stayed on task because it's 6:24 and I still have six minutes until my designated completion time of 6:30. WOOT. I hope that you all had a restful Sunday!

Love love love from Peru!
Sarah

And in the mornin'...I'm makin' WAFFLES!

Greetings, lovely readers.

I promised a more positive post, and I will now attempt to deliver. I wouldn't say that I'm feeling chipper and delightful quite yet, but I am definitely feeling better thanks to a relaxing Saturday. I slept in, ate some gross oatmeal, watched "The Reader" (a greeeat movie--highly recommend), and am now with Laura at The Meeting Place, a cafe in San Blas, where we both just ate some delicious waffles. I'm a bit of a waffle snob, so I don't usually expect much of restaurant waffles, but The Meeting Place turns out an excellent product. Airy, flavorful, and extra great when topped with bananas. I figured that a waffle would be a safe item to eat considering its qualities of meatlessness, plainness, and banana-topped-ness.

Also this morning, I did some housekeeping around my room. I organized the gifts that I've currently accumulated (I think I may have to leave all of my clothes in Cusco...heh), cleaned out my purse, changed the trash bags, painted my toenails, and got a shower, primarily to breathe in some steam in the hopes that it would soothe my sore throat. It seems that when it rains, it pours, and I speak both literally and figuratively. Yesterday and today, Cusco was offered the unexpected gift of a prolonged rain shower! While rather gloomy and muddy, it was definitely a good thing for the plants. In a more figurative sense, I think I am fighting not only good poisoning, but also the start of a headcold. I think I might stop by the pharmacy and find myself some cough medicine. Or maybe just breathe lots more steam. :-)

I must cut this short, however, as The Meeting Place has closed, and Laura and I are still here! Until next time, dear friends, have a happy Saturday!

Parasite Free!

No Parasites, Amigos and Amigas, but I do indeed have some narsty food poisoning. I've stocked up on Gatorade and prescriptions (They actually prescribe Gatorade here like it's medicine--fun fact, right?) and bread and rice and other bland food items. I plan on making a full recovery as rapidamente as possible! I feel like crap, but I remain glad to know that I have loving friends and family and a cuerpo sin parasitos!

The Departure

Well, dear readers, Paul and Eileen Whitman are en route to the USA, scheduled to land in Newark tomorrow morning. It was sad to say goodbye to them, although now I feel better about lying around in my current state of illness. I've developed the recent fear that perhaps I have contracted a parasite, and as a result, I plan on visiting one of the clinics in Cusco this afternoon (aka upon completion of this blog entry!) On the upside, I'm pretty sure that my two-day consumption of only water and about 10 saltines has caused my stomach to become attractively flat. :-) I've been trying to view my current state of illness as an opportunity to pray for peace. Although I'm definitely more inclined to pray when things are rough than when all is running smoothly, I don't know how much trust I truly place in the effectiveness of my prayers. Which I guess is all the more reason to pray! I've been particularly comforted by a song by one of my new favorite singers, Laura Story. The song is called "Perfect Peace," and I highly recommend listening to it! I'll put the lyrics at the end of this post.

This morning, I had the opportunity to see Emily Durham, one of my classmates/colleagues from the Penn Graduate School of Education. Emily did the same master's program as me one year after I completed it, and we had a few opportunities to interact over the summer between our programs to talk about working in international higher education and study abroad. What a small world that she now works for the Duke Engage program, which happens to have sent a group of students to Cusco, Peru through ProWorld! Emily had the great opportunity of visiting Duke Engage groups in Ecuador and Peru, and it was funny to greet her no longer as a fellow student, but as an international education colleague! She's delightful, and always a pleasure to see.

ProWorld will be busy in the next few days as we're expecting the arrival of most of our July semester and intern students. I'm excited to see them, and hopeful that I'll get to form some lovely new friendships. I'll be introducing a few of them to their places of volunteer work starting on Monday. This will involve my serving as instructor in "how to ride a combi," which I haven't exactly mastered yet myself. It will be interesting for sure! Meredith, one of my favorite interns ever, will be taking on a second placement at Manos Unidas, which excites me firstly because I love Meredith and I get to be the one to introduce her to the school, and secondly because it's a chance to get back to Manos Unidas and see what's going on there! I know that they're currently engaged in a pretty important fundraising campaign, which can be seen here: http://www.manosunidasperu.net/

As it tends to do, being sick has made me realize some of the things that I miss most about home. Obviously, saying goodbye to my parents was tough, and I miss them already. I also miss my siblings, my Grammom and Pop Whitman, and, of course, the Queen of the World/Grammy P. I can't wait to see my dear friends at home...my beautiful Diplomats everywhere from Hershey to Allentown to Vermont to NYC to D.C., and my beautiful Rachel Sage and Merry and everyone else around Haddon Heights. And the thought of making a chocolate chip cookie in a US oven at SEA LEVEL...oh, I can't even BEAR it. The cookie longing translates, as well, to all baked goods...you can't imagine what I would pay for a legitimate scone! And TAP WATER. It will be like drinking from the rivers of Eden.

Is it sounding like I hate Peru? Because I don't--really. I just love home. And not even home so much as what waits for me at home. Loving family. Dear friends. Not-as-scary food. It will be sad to leave, but joyful at the same time. Once I've determined what sort of crazy diseases are now crawling through my veins and eradicated them, I'm determined to make the most of my final 30 days in Peru. I will see Lake Titicaka, do a bit more hiking, and maybe even buy the beautiful poncho I've been eying for weeks!

Thank you all for your continued prayers and concern. You cannot even begin to know how much it means to know that not only do I have God "close by my side," but all of you as well!

"perfect peace"

stay close by my side
keep your eyes on me
though this life is hard
i will give you perfect peace

in this time of trial
pain that none sees
trust me when i say
i will give you perfect peace

and you'll never walk alone
and you'll never be in need
though i may not calm the storms around you
you can hide in me
burdens that you bear
offer no relief
let me bear your load
cause i will give you perfect
stay close by my side
and you'll never walk alone
keep your eyes on me
and you will never be in need
though this life is hard
know that i will always give you perfect peace
i will give you perfect peace

I'm Siiiiick...

And I just wanted to vent about it. Feel bad for me, readers, and say prayers for a speedy recovery. My mom was sick last night too, and we haven't figured out the cause. In Cusco, there are so many potential causes of sickness...argh.

On another unfortunate note, my parents are off to the US tomorrow in the early morning. It will be sad to see them go, but I'm glad that they'll be returning to a place where sickness is less of a constant fear! It was such an absolute joy having them here. I'm very blessed to have parents who love me enough to come visit me in a place that would probably never have otherwise made their list of top destinations, AND where they have no knowledge of the language! I think they've come to appreciate the joys of Peru, and they have definitely been a taste of home that I'd been longing for.

More, and hopefully happier, updates soon!

xoxo
Sarah

Father Knows Best...

So as my faithful readers know, my parents are here in Cusco until Friday. They arrived this past Thursday, and still, halfway through their trip, do not have the one suitcase that they checked, which managed to get delayed in Bogota, Colombia. Being the wonderful people they are, they have handled this challenge masterfully and positively. But there's more to the story...

When I picked them up from the airport on Thursday, we spoke briefly with a man from TACA Airlines, who informed us that the bag would be delivered to my parents' hotel upon its arrival. However, my parents accidentally gave the man the wrong hotel address. When I spoke with him, I corrected the name of the hotel, which was only partially mistaken. My parents told the man they were staying at the Hotel Rumi Punku, when I had actually booked them at Waka Punku, which happens to be on the same street. Having corrected the error, we expected the bag to arrive within a maximum of 48 hours. We were hopeful for 24. And yet the bag did not come. And the number we'd been given to inquire after the bag went repeatedly unanswered. Poo.

After making it to Sunday night without successful retrieval of the bag, I decided that it would be wise to actually inquire at the airport in person on Monday morning, which arrived today. When I expressed my belief that this was the best course of action, my dad kept saying, "I don't think you need to go to the trouble of actually going to the airport. Why don't you call, or check the other hotel we wrote down by accident?" Yet I was adamant. Why would the airline have dropped off the bag to the other hotel when I'd corrected the name? And did I really trust myself to get to the bottom of things over the phone...in Spanish? Not really. So this morning, before the start of the workday, I hopped into a cab and asked to go to the airport.

It was an uneventful ride until the cab pulled up to the curb by the TACA Airlines site. At this point, I swung open (widely) the door of the cab. As I did so, an old, red pickup truck came driving by rather speedily and scraped its side on the outside of the taxi cab door. I was mortified. And the truck driver was NOT pleased. The cab driver wasn't all too happy either. I slowly stepped out of the car and surveyed the damage, along with the truck and cab drivers. Then the two drivers began to (loudly) argue over who was at fault. Obviously, both attributed lots of blame to me, as I had opened the door on the "wrong" side of the vehicle. Despite the fact that I was indeed guilty of this act, I attempted to reply(in my less-than-perfect Spanish) that I didn't consider myself totally at fault. The truck had been driving too fast and too close to the median, and when I looked at the cab driver's position on the road, he too had been driving far from the curb and close to the median. As I began to contemplate in my head how things were going to pan out, the voices of the cab driver and the truck driver grew louder and more irritable. The cab driver suggested that we all head to a nearby mechanic to assess the cost of the damage, and the truck driver kept retorting that he "didn't have time for that." I began to get the feeling that I was going to get stuck paying the brunt of the cost for something for which I wasn't entirely to blame.

As the drivers argued, a few airport officials walked over to see what had happened, and then a few more. As the number of Peruvian men in official gear began to seriously overpower me, I could feel tears welling up. I tried to speak rationally, and, after looking in my wallet, offered the truck driver the seventy soles I had on me to cover some of the damage costs. He snidely replied that this amount was not nearly enough, and that the repair of the scratch would cost more like 200 or 300 soles. As I looked into his irritated face and at all of the officially-garbed people surrounding me, I couldn't help it. The tears started flowing. It wasn't the money. Even 300 soles would have been only 100 dollars, which wouldn't do much of anything in the way of car repair in the US. No, what made me cry was the anger and the ruckus and the guilt all rolled up into one. Once the tears started, I couldn't quite stop them, and then one of the airport officials looked at me and realized that I was in distress. Apparently, this worked to my advantage, as lots of the men (grumpy truck driver excluded) began to feel sorry for the poor, ignorant "gringita" whom they had caused to cry. One of them said to the truck driver, "Just let her give you the seventy soles and be finished with it. She didn't do anything wrong on purpose" (which I didn't). He also very sweetly reached into his pocket and pulled out some tissues for me to wipe my eyes. And so they let me pay my 70 soles ($25) and be on my way.

Now let's consider: if I hadn't gone to the airport, these shenanigans would not have occurred. But I had to go to the airport, to get the bag, right? WRONG. Turns out that after crying my lil' eyes out AND waiting for a bunch of people to check into their TACA flights, the bag had been delivered (two days ago, I might add) to the wrong hotel--the one less than a block from where my parents were staying! So 77 soles, 50 centimos, and a gallon or so of tears later, I headed back to my apartment, and then to work. My parents will be delighted to receive their suitcase this evening, and I will never again get out on the "wrong" side of the taxi.

While I waited in line at the TACA counter and tried to wipe away the mascara running down my face, I thought about how lucky I am to be here in Peru, and alive, and enjoying a visit from my parents. No lost piece of luggage, and not even a scratched truck, can take that joy away from me. God is good!

P.S. For those of you who are judging me harshly for having emerged from the taxi on the wrong side, please take note of the following:

1. I occasionally lack the common sense possessed by the average human being.
2. I grew up in the suburbs, in Haddon Heights, a magical land free of taxis and, for the most part, angry people yelling.
3. I don't always listen to my roommate Laura, who is a veritable genius.
4. I got out on the side of the cab on which I was sitting. It was a matter of logical efficiency and convenience.
5. My PERUVIAN friend Lalo says that the safest place to sit in a taxi if you fear your impending death is directly behind the driver. Which is where I was sitting.
6. The driver should probably have told me, ignorant "gringita" that I am, that my chosen side was not the appropriate on which to disembark.

Please consider these fine excuses before making split judgments, dear friends. And thank you all for your continued prayers and love from afar. You are all beautiful! Oh. And Dad was right. Figures.

Machu Picchu, I've Finally Met You!

...and you're BEAUTIFUL! What an incredible, incredible place! I am so glad to have been able to share the experience with my parents. Some of the funny moments and highlights...

1. Friday night, we went to bed early-ish because we knew we would be getting picked up at 6:30 AM from our hotel. I stayed at my parents' bed and breakfast, since there was an extra bed and I didn't want to have to take a cab super early in the morning. It's a good thing that I did this because my phone rang at 3:11 AM, and it was our travel agent, Jose. Jose informed me that he had switched us to the 4 AM departure so that we'd be on an earlier train, and that we would be picked up from our hotel in 45 minutes. Welcome to Peru, folks. 45 minutes notice before a 4 AM departure! Although really, the last minute notice was a good thing. It allowed us to sleep soundly without worrying about a super early wake up, and also provided us with more time at Machu Picchu. Still, a rather unexpected start to the day!

2. We were driven in a car to the town of Ollantaytambo, where we got onto a train headed for Aguas Calientes. When we got to our seats, we realized that we were breaking up a pair of Brazilian lovers, who had been booked in seats separated by an aisle. Kind and romantic Paul Whitman decided to sacrifice his seat, and instead of sitting with Madre and me, sat beside a girl from South Korea. They emerged from the train ride as BFFs, and I only exaggerate slightly. :-)

3. Since Jose decided to change our trains relatively late in the game, it turned out that our tour guide hadn't received the memo, and hadn't yet purchased our tickets to enter Machu Picchu. This required some savvy Spanish-speaking on my part to explain the situation, along with about 45 minutes of sitting outside of a rather random restaurant waiting for the "Chaski Tours" gentleman. This was not a big deal, though, and we soon were on the bus up to the entrance to Machu Picchu!

4. With some time to spare before the start of our 11 AM tour, the padres and I walked around beautiful Machu Picchu for a while on our own. We saw some llamas, marveled over the beautiful "lost city," and got fairly winded walking up lots of steps! At 11, we met up with our tour guide, Carlos, and the rest of our tour mates, all English speakers. Among them were Charlotte, a Catholic missionary serving in Lima, and her mom, both originally from Alabama. It was so cool to come across a Catholic missionary (something of a rarity, in my experience) at Machu Picchu of all places! Charlotte was really nice, and I enjoyed talking to her about her work in Peru. Carlos was a decent tour guide, though he was a little harsh sometimes. I think he might have gotten an ego boost from the silver "Chaski Tours" flag he was carrying, so he kept asking us questions and then answering himself with this tone that clearly implied, "Y'all are too stupid to remember this, but I just told it to you mere minutes ago." Besides his 'tude, Carlos was pretty cool, and shared some interesting information about Machu Picchu and its origins. Upon reflection, I think I would have preferred a tour in Spanish, just because I think the guides are able to speak more informatively and comprehensively in their first language, but it probably would have been tough to translate everything to Paul and Eileen. :-)

5. After our tour was complete, we decided to hike to the Incan Bridge, and then to the Sun Gate (Inti Punku), the gate through which hikers of the Inca Trail enter Machu Picchu. I'm very glad that we did this, partially to be way cooler than my brothers, who did no such hiking, and also because the Sun Gate had a GORGEOUS view of the mountains. That said, we were pretty super exhausted despite the shortness of the hike. Welcome to 9,000 feet above sea level! My parents have been doing some strenuous work since their arrival, but they haven't complained, and for that I give them lots of credit!

6. When we got back down to Aguas Calientes, we had some time to spare, so we had a tasty dinner at a restaurant close to the train station. While we were eating, an elderly man walked by wearing none other than the same crazy sweater that my dad bought at one of the artisan markets. Obviously, the two bonded over their mutual handsomeness in said sweater. Photos to come!

7. Our train back to Ollantaytambo was comfortable, and the padres slept while I read the magazines that my mom had brought along for me from the US (Popular Science, Oprah, Self, Eating Well...I was in my element!). Then we had to take Bus Lucy back to Cusco. We were expecting the worst from Bus Lucy, as Andrew made quite a fuss about his hatred for "her," but the bus turned out to be a tour bus, and quite comfortable. After nearly two hours, however, we understood Andrew's feelings. Bus Lucy took nearly double the time it had taken us to go between Cusco and Ollantaytambo in the morning. We were quite exhausted upon our arrival in Cusco, but pleased to have enjoyed such a beautiful wonder of the world!

On Sunday, we went to church at La Compania, where we celebrated Corpus Christi, and then met up with Laura. The four of us walked to San Pedro market, and we showed my parents where we sometimes go to buy produce and bread and things. The walk there was kind of ridiculous, as my dad stopped at pretty much every street vendor that we passed and made me ask them about how much a pair of socks cost, or a cookie, or one of 5,234 other things!

The four of us then took a little van ride to the town of Chinchero, about 30 minutes from Cusco. There, we visited a big craft market, where I bought some awesome gifts and a scarf that I am becoming more and more convinced should belong to me rather than any of my friends...heh. My mom bought a much-needed hat with beautiful Peruvian embroidery all over it, and a number of other items. Watching my mom shop at the market is pretty hysterical. She's just so nice that she can't pass by someone trying to sell her something. She listens to every person's spiel about their 100% (not) alpaca scarves and beautifully carved gourds and such. She also speaks to them in English as if they understand, which is HYSTERICAL because they look at her with these expressions that clearly say, "Lady, WHAT are you saying?" My mother is a delight!

I also did the unthinkable in Chinchero: I ate MARKET FOOD. Basically, this means that a woman was cooking trout and potatoes in a big ol' pot and serving it on dishes that had been repeatedly used and "washed" (dunked in a pot full of not-entirely-clear water), and I ATE it. Laura and I shared a plate of fish, and my dad had his own plate. My mom tried some soup with a variety of strange items in it. They are brave souls, all of them. For the four of us to eat, it only cost 15 soles ($5), so it was definitely the least expensive of our culinary adventures, and while I am not feeling ill 24 hours later, I don't know how soon I'll be repeating this risky activity! :-)

I also took my padres to El Molino, where my dad was on a hunt for a pair of quality sneakers. It turns out that his feet, along with the rest of him, are much bigger than the standard Peruvian man, so no luck on that end. I did buy the movie "The Boy in the Striped Pajamas," as well as Season Numero Dos of "30 Rock." My kind mother also outfitted me with a shower rod and curtain, which was all too kind. Today, for the first time, I showered without causing our toilet paper to get water spots all over it. What UP!

My parents and I had dinner at a restaurant called Andean Food (clever, right?) that turned out to be quite yummy. We made friends with the cook's son, an 8-year-old boy named Girardo, and it turned out to be his birthday! He was a sweetheart. It was also Happy Hour from 6 to 9 PM, so my dad enjoyed some white wine and my mother and I got ourselves pisco sours. A delightful end to a delightful day!

They have arrived!

Paul and Eileen are in the HOUSE. That's all I have time to say right now. I'm tired and headed to bed.

Actually, though, one quick story. We went to the grocery store earlier tonight to buy some provisions for tomorrow. Tomorrow is Inti Raymi, the Incan Festival of the Sun, and we're going to go and watch the festivities take place, and I've been told that it's good to pack food and drink because it can be rather a long and crowded day. So we went to the grocery store, and my dad sees this bread that he wants to buy. So he looks at the bread lady, and then, without speaking, points to the bread he wants and then holds up three fingers to indicate that he wants three of them. The woman is clearly amused not only by his attempts at speaking solely through hand gestures, but also because he has totally jumped in front of the line of people waiting for their bread without realizing it! I got into the line and when it was my turn, the woman was still laughing at Dad's attempt at bread-buying. It was awesomely funny.

More soon, folks! :-)

A Lifestyle of Prayer

My parents are arriving tomorrow! I can't wait to see them, and be with them for eight days straight! What an absolute blessing!

Last night, I was feeling slightly under the weather, and was obviously particularly concerned because starting tomorrow, I need to be ON! I'm beginning to conclude that stomach "weirdness" is basically a constant while in Peru, but I definitely don't like it, and I definitely spend too much time worrying about being sick. This morning, I still felt tired and not quite right, so I took the morning to rest and try to sleep off whatever might be wrong with me. Around 11:30, I got myself up and decided to get to the office and get some things done. I went to the bathroom to brush my teeth and fix my hair, and when I came back to my room to make my bed, I felt moved to first kneel before and pray. This wonderful, inner call to prayer isn't something that I typically experience, but I would like it to become as commonplace as eating and sleeping.

This past Sunday, I spent some time in San Blas, where I read a chapter of Henri Nouwen's Compassion. The chapter was called "Prayer," and Nouwen, in his oh-so-eloquent prose, explained that our current society doesn't view prayer as anywhere near as effective as action. Nouwen criticizes this societal view, and posits that sincere prayer is actually an act of the deepest kind of solidarity. When we pray deeply and sincerely, we make ourselves vulnerable to the sufferings of others, and experience them as our own. I would imagine that many of us who pray may not have had the experience of bearing the burdens of others as if they were truly "our own," but I think that Nouwen is referencing a sort of solidarity that only comes from prayer that is consistent and habitual. Often, my prayers are shallow and self-centered, and only at very occasionally points in my life have my prayers been frequent and consistent.

Nouwen also says that developing a habit of prayer is really difficult for us today because our society is so drawn to distraction--to magazines, music, television, conversations with friends. While none of these things are bad in and of themselves, there is something--and something important--to be said for moments of stillness. In my experience, these moments don't often appear before us, unless we happen to make a habit of standing alone on mountaintops or laying out and looking up at the stars. We must prioritize and seek out these moments, and use them to be in intimate communion with Christ. I'm no expert at this, obviously, but I absolutely want to be. I need to be.

Being alone in a foreign place reminds me not only of life's variety and beauty, but also of my great need for a Savior to be with me and share in my fears, my worries, my pains, my discoveries, my joys, and my questions. And so I will fall more readily on my knees in these coming weeks, and realize that, whether I feel the urge or whether there are lots of things I'd prefer to do, prayer is not so much an option as a necessity, and a gift from God to bring us closer to Him.

My favorite Bible verse is Exodus 14:14. "The Lord will fight for you. You need only to be still." And yet the moments of true "stillness" in my life are few and far between. Please pray for me, friends and family, that I might be more diligent in finding and cultivating these moments of stillness so that prayer becomes a constant refuge and a daily source of peace. I will pray the same for you.

"To pray is to enter into a deep inner solidarity with all human beings so that in and through us they can be touched by the healing power of God's Spirit. When, as disciples of Christ, we are able to bear the burdens of our brothers and sisters of Christ, we are able to bear the burdens of our brothers and sisters, to be marked with their wounds, and even be broken by their sins, our prayer becomes their prayer, our cry for mercy becomes their cry." -Henri Nouwen, Compassion

"Prayer, as a discipline that strengthens and deepens discipleship, is the effort to remove everything that might prevent the Spirit of God, given to us by Jesus Christ, from speaking freely to us and in us. The discipline of prayer is the discipline by which we liberate the Spirit of God from our entanglement in our impatient impulses. It is the way by which we allow God's spirit to move freely." -Henri Nouwen, Compassion

In that last quote, I like to think that "moving freely" is an understatement...that through prayer, we allow God to DANCE within us...to manifest His will so fully that it doesn't just sit or walk within us, but dances a joyful dance as we go about spreading His love and seeking His face in our friends and our enemies.

¿Con Que Pagaremos?

I've been listening a lot to the song below, performed by Fernando Ortega. It's been quite moving, and I've included an English translation (compliments of yours truly...lo siento!) for the English speakers, aka most of you!

¿Con Que Pagaremos?

Con Que Pagaremos amor tan inmeso,
Que diste Tu vida por el pecador?
En cambio recibes la ofrenda humilde,
La ofrenda humilde, Senor Jesucristo,
De mi corazon.

Y cuando la noche extiende su manto
Mis ojos en llanto en ti fijare
Alzando mis ojos vere las estrellas
Yo se que tras ellas, Cual Padre amoroso
Tu velas por mi

No puedo pagarte con oro ni plata,
El gran sacrificio que hiciste por mi
No tengo que darte por tanto amarme;
Recibe este canto, mezclado con llanto,
Y mi corazon.


How Can We Pay?

How can we pay for such immense love
That You gave Your life for the sinner?
In exchange, all I can give you is the humble offer,
The humble offer, Dear Jesus,
Of my heart.

And when the night extends its darkness
I will fix my eyes on You,
Lifting my eyes to see the stars,
I know that before them all,
You care for me

I can't repay with gold or silver
The great sacrifice that You made for me.
I need not give you worldly riches for such love.
So receive this song, with my weeping
And my heart.

El Dia de los Padres!

Greetings, dear readers!

Today is a special day, so before I share some of the latest adventures, I need to express a bit of gratitude. Padre, I am oh so ridiculously blessed to be your daughter, and even though you only get one day a year that’s officially designated as “Father’s Day,” a dad like you warrants 365 celebrations at the very least! I love you! Hopefully, my siblings have showered you with affection in my absence. :-) Happy Father’s Day as well to all of the other dads who might be reading this post. Relax and enjoy a Sunday of golf and beer and napping!

And now, a few updates for y’all! Firstly, Paul and Eileen Whitman will be here in Cusco in t-minus CINCO DIAS! That’s super soon, and I can’t wait to see them! Today, I had a little date with Jose, of All-Ways Travel, where I booked the three of us on a one-day tour of Machu Picchu. I am so excited to finally see the "Lost City"—the reason that so many people come to Cusco! I also checked out the parental lodgings, at Waka Punku bed and breakfast, and I am quite pleased with the hospitality so far provided by the staff. There will likely be a bit of a communication gap, but I think that all parties will be content to speak in the language of smiles and hugs and laughter! In addition to our Machu Picchu trip, I’m excited to take my parents to the Inka Museum, which I have yet to visit, and also to the Monasterio de Santa Catalina, both to see the inside of the monastery and also to meet my dear Dominga! There will be lots to see and do (and eat!), and it will be a wonderful eight days. Please, to those of you who pray, send some requests up to the Big Guy for a week of safe travels, good health, and family bonding!

Also, an issue of morality. When booking a day trip to Machu Picchu, students who have a valid ISIC card (International Student Identification Card) receive a $20 discount on the total price. To be eligible for an ISIC card, you have to have a currently valid student ID, a passport photo, and a copy of your passport itself. I, though no longer a “student” in the official sense of the word, happen to have a University of Pennsylvania ID card that does not expire until 2012. I am wondering if this is perhaps the result of an error by the card people, who may have mistakenly thought me to be an undergraduate student rather than a one-year master’s student. Whatever the case may be, I have a “valid” ID card, and I am planning on using it to get myself an ISIC card and a $20 discount at Machu Picchu. Is this an immoral act on my part? I am probably going to do it regardless of feedback, but it someone has a really stellar argument that could guilt me into admission of my no-longer-student status, I would welcome the attempt!

Yesterday and today, I spent the morning and early afternoon working in the community of Ocorurro. Ocorurro is located quite close to Pinancay, the community where I have worked in the past. The task undertaken by the Missouri bunch, the ProWorld summer interns, and myself was the construction of a preschool, to be attended by about 15 students between the ages of three and five. While it would have been fun to immediately start laying bricks, we first had to create a firm and level foundation for the school. This process involved using picks to loosen the earth, shoveling and transferring the dirt to a pile to be made into “barro” (mud for brick building), and later digging a trench around the border of the foundation in which to lay cement. As per usual, the community members were impressively able-bodied with the picks and shovels, and we were pathetically weak due to the combined effects of the altitude and our overall lack of disposition toward manual labor. The work was tiring and sweaty, but we had fun. The knowledge of what we were doing and how it would benefit the community made the work seem less bothersome. We also had a pretty good game of “Name That Tune” going yesterday, which made the work go by more quickly. Though I was sad not to be with dear Analie, I did meet several other sweethearts, including a little girl of four named Maili and a three-year-old boy named Carlos, who stole my heart with his sweater vest and his smile!

Here he is!



And here are a few of our intrepid workers!



Friday was particularly enjoyable because I had the opportunity to work not only with the Mizzou crowd, but also with some really lovely intern and study abroad students who are here in Cusco for the next month or two. I met Javier, a pre-med student from Notre Dame, who quickly charmed me with his smile and super-friendly demeanor. Then there’s Madison, another healthcare-oriented intern, who just delights me with her positivity. Natalie goes to Vassar, and is a basketball player—so devoted that she lifts weights every night here in Peru as per her team workout schedule! Ellen is from Texas, and has an amusingly sarcastic sense of humor, and Brennan is just the sweetest thing, and goes to JMU. I haven’t yet had the joy of a conversation with Udani, but in passing greetings, she’s always smiling and sweet. I am also fairly obsessed with Meredith, another Notre Damer who shares my love for words of affirmation. We really have a wonderful group here, and in addition to enjoying their wonderful optimism, it’s also been rather humbling to see the incredibly adventuresome spirits that they each possess. I’m pretty sure that I wasn’t quite so brave at age 20 or 21...Cusco wasn’t exactly as high as Madrid on my list of desirable travel destinations. (Better late than never, though! Here I am, and what a great experience it has been!)

Another exciting development in my life has been my use of the combi as a means of transportation. Combis are the main form of public transport here in Cusco. A combi can range in size from that of a 12-passenger-sized van to a full-fledged bus. Each combi runs independently of the others, and each follows its own unique route through the city of Cusco. For 60 centimos (about 20 American cents), you can board any combi and go pretty much anywhere in the city. The catch is that you have to know the routes that each combi takes, and you also have to smush yourself into what is often a very tightly packed vehicle and announce to the driver when you want to get off. I avoided riding a combi for a little more than a month, which is pretty impressive in a sense, but also pretty foolish as it’s quite economical. My two main objectives were my lack of knowledge of the combi routes and my overarching fear of getting into a clearly claustrophobia-prone vehicle going who knows where. I often watched combis zoom up to their stops, at which point the designated “yeller” (as I call him) would slide open the door, yell out something like, “Avenida Cultura, Rapido Express, Sube, Sube Sube, Sube!”, wait about five seconds for any eager passengers, and then shut the door and tell the driver to zoom off to the next stop. The whole process was frightening to witness, and I had only the slightest desire to take part. However, last week, I joined Eliza and two internship students on a combi ride to their internship site (a school in one of Cusco’s poorest districts), and it was not only not scary, but also kind of fun. I’ve come to realize that combis are a very authentic and standard part of Peruvian life, and to not experience them is to be only a tourist and not a traveler. I have therefore decided to make more regular use of combis, and to diligently study the routes. One of the combi services is called “Batman,” and I am particularly eager to find out where that will take me! I shall attempt to take a photo of a combi so that y’all can better understand the experience!

Another recent highlight has been my visits to El Molino, which is basically a big, partially outdoor shopping center for just about anything you might want to buy. There are soccer balls, chocolate, towels, sheets, clothes, kitchen supplies, electronics, movies, music, shoes…all for rather low prices and all in one convenient location…rather a rarity in Cusco when all the florists are together on one street, all the hardware stores are on another, etc. etc. (This aspect of Cusco baffles me still.) My primary motive in visiting El Molino has been to buy the SUPER cheap movies, which cost, on average, between 75 cents and $1.50 per DVD. What a steal! Today, for 13 soles (about $5), I bought Season One of “30 Rock,” “City of God,” “Revolutionary Road,” “Mar Adentro,” and “Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows: Part One.” Ridiculous! I’m planning on growing my quality movie collection by way of occasional trips to El Molino. Another super important El Molino purchase was that of a supplemental bath towel. Having only one bath towel means that I can’t shower when said towel is at the lavanderia (laundromat). Today, that problem was happily solved by the purchase of a beautiful, bright green toalla de bano. Awesome.

I also wanted to share an experience that I enjoyed a few days ago at La Pagina en la Puerta, a library where some of our interns are placed. The library is located in San Miguel de San Sebastian, a very poor area located just outside of Cusco city. It is founded and run by an American named Amy, who has lived in Cusco for several years. The reason for the library’s placement in San Miguel is to promote a love of reading among children who might not receive much academic encouragement in their home lives. Normally, two ProWorld interns visit the library three days a week from 4:30 PM until 7 PM. On the day that I went to visit, the two interns were both sick, so it was just the teacher, a bunch of kids, and me. I ended up spending some time reading individually with a few different kids. One sweet little girl kept picking books with “extras”—like flaps to open and pop-up pictures and things. She was fun. Then a sweet little boy sat with me and read to me from “Caperucita Roja” (Little Red Riding Hood!). After reading with a few other children, I went down to the game room, where a little girl decided to challenge me to a puzzle competition. She pulled out two puzzles, gave one to me, and then proceeded to slam hers onto the desk upside down. She looked at me and I did the same, and then it was ON. We battled to the finish, and I scarcely beat her on Round One. She then took me down on Round Two, and in Round Three made the mistake of giving herself a much harder puzzle than she gave me, and I emerged victorious. (I’m not a bully who doesn’t let kids win, but I think she would have picked up on it since my puzzle was clearly so much easier than hers…losing would only have looked suspicious!). It was a really lovely afternoon, and so great to see kids who were so sincerely excited about reading! While I’ve pretty much obtained all of the information I need on the library for the purposes of website updates and such, I would still like to return a few times to again read to the kids and play with them. I’m so glad that such a place exists here in Cusco. Although it’s small and although there’s much room for growth, it’s a really beautiful start, and I know that it will continue to garner support from reading advocates in Peru and abroad. Want to learn more about La Pagina en La Puerta? Here's a link...http://lapaginaenlapuerta.org/

The final announcement of the day is.....another visitor will be gracing Cusco with her presence…my cousin, Maura Pawlowski! I am very excited to know that I’ll have some company for part of July, and I’m hoping that Maura and her friend might join me for a frolic to Lake Titikaca. It would be fun to have some company!

That’s all for now, folks! I’m off to watch an episode or two of my newly-purchased season of “30 Rock”! Tomorrow, it’s off to church and then a lunch date with Helmut and then some relaxing in a sunny plaza somewhere and reading a great book! And of course, contemplating the awesomeness of Paul Andrew Whitman on Father’s Day!

Hasta pronto!